All back together… halos, flowing indicators, F1 style flashing brake lights and party mode4 looks better…
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All back together… halos, flowing indicators, F1 style flashing brake lights and party mode4 looks better…
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Loving itAll back together… halos, flowing indicators, F1 style flashing brake lights and party mode
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Yeah..... that's pretty f'in coolAll back together… halos, flowing indicators, F1 style flashing brake lights and party mode
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Nice one Andy , looks pretty much the same to me mate , might even say “ stock “ ( no I will never let it go lol)Got my Tein Flex Z fitted today and the EDFC Pro kit.
Need to tidy the wires up a bit, mount the GPS and controller but working a treat.
I wanted to try and keep it the same height.
Not that far off.
Have not done a proper test yet and the controller is on default but it seems to handle better and rides the bumps great.
Before
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After
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All back together… halos, flowing indicators, F1 style flashing brake lights and party mode
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What where you signs that you need front bearings?New front tyres fitted for the MOT on Wednesday
I need new front wheel bearings, is @BMR still going?
I thinks so just text himI need new front wheel bearings, is @BMR still going?
Result.... Kwik Sh!t are feckin robdogs. I used Halfords/National Tyres today only because they where the only place locally that had the right size and could fit me in. TBH I was really shocked when the fitter wanted a word with me about the wheel bearings and didn't try to sell me new ones, don't think he will be there long if management find outAfter being advised that I needed new discs and pads all round after an inspection at Kwik fit, they wanted 800£ + so I obviously told them to get stuffed. I thought I was being smart by sourcing them myself from JDM and getting my mechanic friend to run me through it at home and I gave him £100, on our inspection nothing wrong with pads and really the discs were not that bad, but as I had them I changed them anyway.
The actually problem I had was rear near side bearing needed replacing, horrible grinding/clunking noise, from when I left Kwik fit.
When we did the brakes it was obvious it needed bearing.
Found a mobile mechanic to come and do the bearing, took about 2.5hours, I was happy that it came off ok, took about 45-1hr of tapping etc.
Was super excited to be back on the road after 10days, put it in reverse, big grinding/thud no movement, can hear the driveshaft spinning
Call back the mechanic to check his work, when he looks, the outer CV joint has snapped/sheered on the teeth. He had never seen such a thing.
I think he over tightened the bearing hub but, watched him use the gun to do so but lost concentration because I was so happy the bearing came off so well.
Any way, ordered the outer CV joint, and he came back, stripped it back and fitted it in 2hrs, I watched him overtighten the hub nut again and advised hime to not do it as aggressively.
Then changed the offside front outer track rod end for me that I'd diagnosed on the brake change which took 30 mins.
To top it off, battery was flat, couldn't jump with his power pack, no green light on battery, new battery needed. Fitted new large battery direct swap that I had to get from Halfords at £145.
Then my luck changes and I get the invoice for the labour, 6 hours and 2 calls outs ... £190
So all in all
Discs and pads all round
Rear bearing
Rear outer CV joint
Front Track rod end
New battery
£830
Cheaper than Kwik fit wanted for just the discs and pads
Some mechanics really like their dugga dugga guns. Glad you are back on the road.After being advised that I needed new discs and pads all round after an inspection at Kwik fit, they wanted 800£ + so I obviously told them to get stuffed. I thought I was being smart by sourcing them myself from JDM and getting my mechanic friend to run me through it at home and I gave him £100, on our inspection nothing wrong with pads and really the discs were not that bad, but as I had them I changed them anyway.
The actually problem I had was rear near side bearing needed replacing, horrible grinding/clunking noise, from when I left Kwik fit.
When we did the brakes it was obvious it needed bearing.
Found a mobile mechanic to come and do the bearing, took about 2.5hours, I was happy that it came off ok, took about 45-1hr of tapping etc.
Was super excited to be back on the road after 10days, put it in reverse, big grinding/thud no movement, can hear the driveshaft spinning
Call back the mechanic to check his work, when he looks, the outer CV joint has snapped/sheered on the teeth. He had never seen such a thing.
I think he over tightened the bearing hub but, watched him use the gun to do so but lost concentration because I was so happy the bearing came off so well.
Any way, ordered the outer CV joint, and he came back, stripped it back and fitted it in 2hrs, I watched him overtighten the hub nut again and advised hime to not do it as aggressively.
Then changed the offside front outer track rod end for me that I'd diagnosed on the brake change which took 30 mins.
To top it off, battery was flat, couldn't jump with his power pack, no green light on battery, new battery needed. Fitted new large battery direct swap that I had to get from Halfords at £145.
Then my luck changes and I get the invoice for the labour, 6 hours and 2 calls outs ... £190
So all in all
Discs and pads all round
Rear bearing
Rear outer CV joint
Front Track rod end
New battery
£830
Cheaper than Kwik fit wanted for just the discs and pads
I suspected it because of a heavy vibration on braking when over 60mph, also a "clonk" when braking on a three-point turn, having a little fight on the straight when when driving and a lot of tyre wear on one side. When the new tyres where fitted today the mechanic had noticed a lot of play and advised accordinglyWhat where you signs that you need front bearings?
I have the same problem 32 to 18.5 boiling 18 freezing. Where do I find the sensor please, because if it only takes about 15 to look at, I want to give it a try?After having the van for 3 years and the Auto climate function on the van has never worked. I looked at some of the posts about that sensor. Got round to removing that cover and found out that not just that the sensor was not connected to the pipe or the electrical plug it was so dusty too. Cleaned up, connected them up and cable tied the pipe to the sensor connection and now I have have climate control as such. Now 18.5 degrees isn't just sauna temperature and 18 degrees is Baltic cold. Can't believe I left it that long to look at it. Only took 15mins to sort out. Now to fix the stupid lock on the driver's sliding door.
I think she is saying "Stick with the Elgrand please"Not in the Elgrand, but kind of Elgrand related.
Took the dog out in her 'other car', and took a stroll from Ystrad Myanch to Colin Price's.
Had a look at some Elgrands he's got (I know, sad looking at Elgrands when I got one lol), but loved the s*xy camper converted Hiaces
I should have taken a tape measure, as although they're taller, I'm not sure what wheel base his Hiaces are, but they don't look much longer than the E51s
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Here's the thread mate below. You'll be kicking yourself once you've fixed it and wondering why you left it for so long.I have the same problem 32 to 18.5 boiling 18 freezing. Where do I find the sensor please, because if it only takes about 15 to look at, I want to give it a try?